Lesvos – Sunday 20th May 2012


After the first part of our voyage, with swell and wind and sailing, today’s calm sea and total lack of wind means travel must be by motor. It is less romantic than sailing – and noisier but the seascape is different every day. On one side of the boat the sea wears an oil grey blue silk which ripples softly to create texture. On the other side the light creates two tone blue in water colour brush strokes.
As we approach Lesvos island, some 30 miles away, the hills are clad in grey cloud. The foreboding rain threatens from the distance, but as we approach the harbour, we find we have brought the sun with us.
Plomari is on the South coast and one of the largest towns we have stopped at. The houses date back to the 19th century when the town became wealthy from ship building. Today, however it is an Ouzo capital. The town has a good number of tavernas, none of which seem able to produce good food. The streets stretch along the contours of the hillside and connect with steep stairs of uneven depth. Outside the houses the women gather to gossip, family groups are seated in shaded gardens. The men seem to haunt the bars and look horrified when John and I sit down to join them to drink coffee. There is not another woman in sight, and I certain seem to be drawing attention to myself, without trying!

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